The Business of Fashion Podcast

Bonus: The Trade War’s Off, For Now. What's Next for Fashion?

Overview

Content

Trade Deal Announcement and Initial Impact

* On May 12th, the US and China announced a deal to lower tariffs for 90 days * US tariffs on China dropped from 145% to 30% * Chinese tariffs on US goods dropped from 125% to 10%

Reasons for De-escalation

* Both sides recognized the trade war was causing significant economic damage * Concerns included: - Dropping cargo volumes - Investor panic - Recession projections - GDP contraction - Potential empty retail shelves (highlighted by Walmart and Target)

Tariff Landscape Analysis

* Previous 145% tariff was essentially an "import ban" * 30% tariff allows imports but remains potentially expensive * Tariffs apply on top of existing customs duties * Impact varies by product and company size * Some companies can resume shipping, others still face challenges

Market and Industry Reaction

* Stock market rallied, erasing recent losses * Industry remains cautious with ongoing uncertainty about long-term trade relations * Potential continued inflationary pressures * Consumer confidence and demand remain significant concerns

Business Implications and Strategy Shifts

* Specific Brand Example (Bog Bags): - CEO immediately greenlit 90% of previously suspended fall and holiday product orders - Continuing to explore production alternatives in Vietnam and Sri Lanka - Plans to maintain 40% production in China, diversify remaining production across other countries

* Production Hub Considerations: - Emerging hubs like Vietnam, Cambodia, and India were preparing for potential Chinese tariff increases - Current 90-day pause creates uncertainty about future production strategies - Negotiations could dramatically shift production landscape

U.S. Trade Strategy Observations

* Unclear whether the goal is to: 1. Negotiate more favorable international deals 2. Bring manufacturing back to the U.S. * Lack of clarity creates planning challenges for businesses * U.S. manufacturing revival still does not appear to be a likely immediate outcome

Inventory and Retail Response

* Brands are using the 90-day trade deal window to place holiday orders * Retailers taking a conservative approach to inventory: - Focusing on "evergreen" or core products with proven sales history - Inventory levels are up for some major retailers (Aritzia, Revolve, Tapestry) * Retailers expect minimal stock-outs for summer and back-to-school shopping

Shipping and Supply Chain Implications

* 90-day window provides temporary certainty for imports from China * Brands rushing to import products before potential future tariff changes * Anticipated challenges include: - Potential increase in freight costs due to competition for shipping space - Ongoing 30% tariff - Uncertainty about trade relations after 90-day period

Small Parcel Tariff Changes

* The U.S. duty-free exemption loophole for imports was modified on May 2nd * Tariff rates for small parcels from China/Hong Kong reduced from 120% to 54% * This change came shortly before the 90-day trade pause announcement

Brand Communication Strategies

* Brands taking different approaches to communicating about tariffs: - Explaining price increases transparently - Hosting AMAs (Ask Me Anything) about tariffs - Using tariff discussions in marketing communications * Many brands have been raising prices silently * Some leveraging tariff uncertainty as an opportunity to adjust pricing

Consumer Perception

* Tariff news about companies like Shein and Timu may already be deterring customers * Consumers generally aware of tariff discussions due to media coverage * Some brands leveraging the narrative that price increases are due to external factors

Tariff Mitigation Techniques

* "First sale declaration" allows declaring initial product origin for tariff calculations * "Tariff engineering" involves strategic product modifications to reduce tax rates * Examples include: - Adding fabric/leather elements to change product classification - Adjusting fabric composition (natural vs. synthetic fibers) - Strategic placement of pockets or design elements * These combined strategies could potentially save up to 30% in tariffs * Trade complexity has revived old workaround techniques previously unnecessary

Supply Chain Resilience Strategies

* Brands advised to diversify supply chains and build redundancy * Having multiple manufacturing locations helps mitigate risks from disruptions * COVID-19 and tariffs have accelerated the need for supply chain flexibility * Forge stronger ties with suppliers, vendors, and retail partners * Collaborate to share margin impacts and minimize customer price increases * Brands with strong supplier relationships more likely to receive preferential treatment

Future Outlook

* Recent China trade developments create hope for resolving other international trade tensions * Matt Priest (Footwear Distributors and Retailers of America CEO) suggests the China deal sets a precedent for other trade agreements * Similar tariff reductions expected for other countries like Vietnam (potentially from 46% to 30% or lower) * Additional trade deals likely to be negotiated with tariff rates lowered from previous levels * Significant uncertainty remains about long-term trade negotiations and potential future tariffs

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