Key Takeaways
- New York Times restaurant critics Ligaya Mishan and Tejal Rao share insights on their evolving roles.
- The critics discuss the logistics and ethical considerations of reviewing restaurants nationwide.
- Critics detail personal strategies for balancing health with demanding dining schedules.
- They highlight memorable meals and the unique challenges and joys of their profession.
Deep Dive
- Ligaya Mishan's path began in Honolulu, leading to writing for The New Yorker and The New York Times.
- Tejal Rao grew up food-obsessed and gained experience working in restaurant kitchens.
- The host noted an overwhelming number of listener questions submitted for the new critics.
- Critics aim to cover the entire U.S. restaurant scene, believing it essential for understanding contemporary America.
- This broader scope, while increasing job difficulty, is considered more exciting for the critics.
- Logistical challenges include selecting restaurants, strategic planning, and managing eating capacity by dining multiple times daily.
- Negative reviews must be newsworthy, focusing on established or high-profile establishments rather than small, unknown businesses.
- Positive reviews can make restaurants popular, but sometimes lead to unintended consequences such as increased rents and closures for smaller establishments.
- Critics often fabricate stories or eat small bites to avoid appearing displeased when not finishing dishes.
- The host questioned how critics manage potential weight gain and if they use weight loss drugs.
- Ligaya Mishan maintains health through running, push-ups, and eating salads on days off, noting her predecessor Pete Wells's dedication to "double dinners".
- Tejal Rao views eating as not inherently unhealthy, believing many restaurant meals are nourishing, and incorporates workouts as needed.
- Underrated food cities suggested include Honolulu and Minneapolis in a lightning round segment.
- Critics disfavor trends like "beef tallow everything" and excessive caviar, truffles, or uni, while favoring madeleines for dessert.
- Controversial food takes include "Spam is a great flavoring agent" and the assertion that West Coast bagels are better than New York City bagels.
- Tejal Rao recounts her best recent meal at Emeril's in New Orleans, highlighting outstanding gumbo and smoked boudin.
- Ligaya Mishan describes a standout experience at Karai Kitchen in Jersey City, praising its home-style food and complex goat biryani.
- Critics share the emotional connection of being a regular, such as at a Nairobi spot known for fried potatoes or Romans in Fort Greene, Brooklyn, a feeling they miss as critics.