How I Built This with Guy Raz

Tatcha: Vicky Tsai (July 2020)

Key Takeaways

Deep Dive

Early Life and Career Foundation

Life-Changing Events and Career Shifts

- She left her building early while he witnessed the second plane hitting the tower - They were temporarily separated in the chaos with non-functioning mobile phones - The experience prompted them to reconsider their Wall Street careers

- Previously very healthy (marathon runner, crew team captain) - Suffered inability to move, keep food down, and significant weight loss - Spent three years seeking treatment, including visits to Mayo Clinic - Eventually recovered after deciding to stop all aggressive treatments

Business School and Corporate Experience

- Developed acute dermatitis from testing multiple skincare products - Condition caused extreme skin sensitivity that persisted for years - Could only use Aquaphor as treatment and discovered Japanese blotting papers for skin management

- Tasked with launching consumer products in China, specifically bottled Frappuccino - Worked intensely (40 consecutive days without time off) - Despite successful work (including completing a challenging project while wearing a cast), received a disappointing "meets expectations" performance review

The Startup Detour

- Joined Berkeley-based sustainability startup as first business hire - Company created sustainability ratings for consumers, ahead of its time - Left after only four months, feeling the role wasn't the right fit - Resigned by personally delivering a letter, experiencing an emotionally difficult departure

- Worked multiple jobs, including helping landlord rent apartments for $400 per job - Experienced awkward interactions with former business school classmates - Felt increasingly impatient with roles that didn't feel meaningful

The Kyoto Discovery

- Discovered blotting papers were originally used to protect gold during hammering - Learned about geishas and Kabuki actors' historical use of these papers - Felt disconnected from parents' traditional immigrant success narrative

- Learned about natural skincare ingredients: rice powder, camellia oil, and sake - Discovered oil-based makeup removal techniques - Was fascinated by the authenticity and historical depth of these beauty practices

- Cost over $30,000, which she spontaneously agreed to purchase - Later informed her surprised husband about the commitment - Motivated by healing her own three-year skin condition using traditional Japanese methods

Building Tatcha from Nothing

- Credit cards and working four jobs - Negotiating reduced rent by being a building superintendent - Selling personal possessions including her engagement ring, car, and furniture - Eric winning money playing poker - Self-financing to maintain brand purity

- Motivated by sharing "beautiful little treasures" with other women - Emerged from personal passion rather than calculated business strategy

- Being pregnant and unable to afford maternity clothes - Having credit cards declined while grocery shopping - Significant financial hardship while building the business

Market Resistance and Creative Solutions

- Experts claimed Asian beauty products were not "aspirational" in the U.S. market - Other Asian brands like Shiseido, SK2, and Shuyu Amora had limited U.S. success - Skincare was not considered a priority for U.S. consumers compared to makeup

- Researched magazine editors and makeup artists at the library - Sent handwritten letters and care packages with blotting papers - Personally mailed samples to industry professionals - Focused on authentic storytelling about products

Product Development and Launch

- Discovered traditional skincare relied on kitchen ingredients and natural products - Traditional Japanese experts were skeptical of reviving "old-fashioned" techniques - Required custom scientists to develop unique formulations with green tea, rice, and algae

- Required custom packaging and mold creation at significant expense - Funded through friends and family totaling $1-2 million in unstructured investments - Moved into parents' home near San Francisco for seven years, taking no personal salary

- Operated from one-bedroom apartment with husband Eric providing stable income at Cisco - Manually prepared 10,000 product labels while pregnant - Worked 70 hours per week, taking only one day off for childbirth - Hired non-English speaking Chinese nanny (Mrs. Liu) who helped with childcare and order fulfillment

Early Sales Struggles and Breakthrough

- Only sold one serum initially - Experienced website pricing glitch listing products at $0 - No retailers wanted to carry the brand initially - Direct-to-consumer approach generated little website traffic

- Became a significant sales channel, selling out during appearances - Notable early customer was Donatella Versace, indicating high-end appeal despite garage operations

Financial Crisis and Near-Sale

- Took emergency loans from family and maxed out credit cards - Received two acquisition offers and almost sold to pay back investors - Prepared to sell without personal profit just to repay debts

- Acquisition was unexpectedly canceled due to Japan earthquake and tsunami - This setback paradoxically became a turning point

- Created one-to-one model where each purchase funds a day of school - Traveled to Cambodia to verify nonprofit's work - Inspired by resilient girls who maintained hope despite challenges

Growth and Leadership Challenges

- Founders personally financed losses with help from friends and family - By 2017, likely achieving $30-40 million in annual sales - Felt like constant "high wire act" with increasing financial pressure

- Provided sense of less isolation in business challenges - Created need for another capital event to buy out investors

- Felt like "gut punch" after leading company for 9 years - Self-reflection revealed leadership insecurities: learning "on the fly," struggling with public persona vs. executive leadership, wanting to be liked, lacking confidence despite results - Viewed company as her "family" but willing to step aside for better outcomes

Personal Burnout and Strategic Decision

- Struggled with self-doubt as woman entrepreneur - Eventually hired new CEO, allowing focus on passion areas (client care and product formulation)

The Unilever Acquisition

- Decided to sell after reflective process about company's original purpose - Met Unilever executive Vasiliki, who led purpose-driven brand initiative - Wanted "forever home" for brand that would protect original mission - Sale reportedly valued at $500 million in 2019

- Viewed brand as "promise" meant to outlive her - Motivated by sharing meaningful experience rather than financial gain

Success Philosophy and Return

- Emphasizes importance of consistently "showing up" - Credits loyal partners and team members who believed from beginning - Considers herself fortunate rather than exceptionally talented

- Characterizes entrepreneurial experience as "treacherous" and deeply transformative - Caused her to question identity and capabilities

- Successfully turned company around, similar to Howard Schultz's Starbucks return - Message to entrepreneurs: "If I could succeed, others can too"

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