Strange threadfellows: How the U.S. military shaped what we all wear

Key Takeaways

The U.S. military has significantly influenced everyday civilian clothing and the outdoor gear industry.
Post-World War II, a massive surplus of military goods fueled the growth of army surplus stores and the outdoor market.
Many prominent outdoor apparel brands currently operate as U.S. military contractors, often without publicizing these roles.
The symbiotic relationship between military contracts and civilian production drives innovation and offers economic stability for companies.

Fashion reporter Avery Trufelman explores 'military surplus economics,' highlighting the often-unnoticed influence of U.S. military designs on everyday clothing.
Examples include synthetic down, pioneered by Primaloft, and common clothing elements like Velcro straps and cord locks, all with military origins.
A walk through Soho, Manhattan, reveals the widespread presence of expensive outdoor gear and military-inspired fashion in mainstream culture.

World War II necessitated a technologically driven approach to outfitting U.S. soldiers for diverse global climates, moving beyond prior European styles.
The U.S. military's Quartermaster Corps, led by Harvard professor George Dorio, enlisted outdoor experts and brands like Eddie Bauer to test gear.
Innovative testing, including using a sensor-equipped mannequin named Chauncey, led to the development of the M43 field jacket and modern layering concepts.
The M43 jacket, introduced in 1943, became a classic design featuring four pockets and a cinched waist, adaptable with modular insulation or waterproofing.

The end of World War II in August 1945 resulted in a significant surplus of military clothing and gear, including millions of pounds of excess items.
The War Assets Administration was established to sell off these goods, leading to an explosion of army surplus stores nationwide.
This abundance of cheap military surplus became a primary source for everyday clothing, akin to modern fast-fashion retailers.
The influx of surplus also fueled the growth of the outdoor industry, with companies like REI incorporating military gear into their inventory.

The Vietnam War introduced the M65 jacket, an updated military garment featuring new elements like Velcro and a stowaway hood.
After entering the surplus market, the M65 jacket was adopted by counterculture figures and anti-war protesters.
The jacket became a symbol of rebellion, illustrating the transition of military items into civilian subcultures during the 1970s.

Artists Patricia and Mel Ziegler began their business by selling modified military surplus shirts, demonstrating how stylistic additions increased value.
In 1978, they opened a shop in Mill Valley, transforming military surplus like jackets and sleeping bags into fashion items, and repurposed gas mask bags as purses.
Their brand, Banana Republic, capitalized on 'remixed' Army surplus styles before being sold to The Gap, which further popularized military-inspired fashion.

The end of the draft in 1973 and military downsizing reduced the direct availability of surplus clothing.
Many popular outdoor brands, including Arc'teryx, Patagonia (historically), Gore-Tex, Vibram, and Danner, are interconnected with the military supply chain.
Reporting on these connections is challenging as companies often obscure their military contracts on their websites.
Patagonia and Vibram have historically or currently supplied the U.S. military with clothing and equipment, sometimes under different company names.

Outdoor Research openly manufactures gear for the U.S. Army, viewing this work as crucial for soldier protection.
The company's website features a 'tactical' section, highlighting a symbiotic relationship between civilian gear development and military contracting.
Military contracts provide large order volumes and ensure domestic manufacturing, a national security requirement.
These contracts allow Outdoor Research to diversify supply chains and income, with the tactical side comprising 20% of its business and offering stability.

U.S. manufacturing capabilities, supported by military contracts, proved vital for Outdoor Research during the pandemic, allowing them to retain all employees.
Innovation often flows between Outdoor Research's military and civilian product lines; identical items like jackets may be produced in different colors for both markets.
Guest Avery Trufelman discovered that many civilian companies—from phones and internet to exercise equipment—contract with or supply the military.
This realization led Trufelman to embrace military-style clothing, seeing it as an acknowledgment of participation in this interwoven economic web.